Saturday, June 9, 2012

Returning to Switzerland after Four Generations


Dear Followers,

I have a fantastic adventure to tell you about... =]

Some of you might or might not know, but I am part Swiss, fourth generation. Here's just a little family history for you: My great grandfather Robert D. Brackett was by all accounts a very cool person. He and my great grandmother Tonia used to travel all over on vacation and bring back things from his journeys. He had massive (and beautiful) collections of rocks, geological samples, shells, and all manner of cool things from around the world that have been passed down through the family. My other siblings and I are slowly inheriting some of them (courtesy of my grandma Mary Jean) and I have a small fortune of memories and articles, including my great grandpa's old hunting and fishing knife (apparently it was also either his father's or his grandfather's, so it has been in the family for ages).

The story as I know it is that great grandpa Brackett was in Europe as a military driver. After the war, while he was on leave in Switzerland, he met great grandma Tonia, a Swiss girl who was working in a resort on Lake Lucerne. I wish I could tell you guys all the things that I've learned about them, because there are so many cute stories. I'll just tell you that their story is currently among my favorite, and they really really loved one another. She returned to the United States with him to Michigan and never went back to Switzerland. They kept up decent contact with the Swiss family over the years and my grandma has several photo albums and a couple of 40-30 year old addresses from friends and relatives that she had never met.

As you know, I am in Italy with my family, so my grandparents made the big trip to come stay with up for a few days. On a whim, we thought that since we were so close (and since it was the first time that they have ever left the country) it would be a fun little adventure to take them north to Switzerland to see the place where my great grandmother, my grandma's mother, grew up. So, after dragging them to Siena and Rome last weekend, we got back to Milan and we rented a car and set off for Switzerland.

Lake Lucerne, where my Great Grandma Tonia worked

We left early and had the most beautiful drive. The GPS we rented (we called her Karen) guided us into and over some of the most beautiful countryside in the Alps.

Dad at the Wheel

my grandma was so excited the whole time...

We passed by the beautiful (and big) lake where Robert and Tonia met, crossed over the Italian region of the country and into the German, and went through the third longest road tunnel in the world and the longest in Switzerland. Tonia Keller lived about an hour away in a little village nearby Sursee called Winikon. On the way, my grandma was showing me photos of the town as it was in the 1940's. She had little pieces of paper marking the location of the school, the house where she lived, and giving a few other little data tidbits. I found that with the little German that I have learned so far, I could read the letter that Robert Brackett had written to Tonia's family to let them know that she had passed away (he called her his "everything in the world").



When we got over the crest of the hill, we passed through Triengen (the bigger city that Winikon branches off of) and at that point the excitement started pouring over as we began already pointing out things from the photos.

We spotted the old church immediately and drove our way through the little town and up the hill that it was sitting on.

It is a strange, enthralling feeling to be in such a situation - to be in a town that you have never seen before but are so connected to. It's like coming home after a very long journey. You feel like you should recognize it, be a part of it in some way, as if somehow you belong to it and it you. And yet, it feels strange and foreign.


We spent an entire half hour at the church, looking at everything. The inside is beyond beautiful (and surprisingly so, because the out is so plain), and it is surrounded by a little garden cemetery. Because flat space is so limited in the ("whole country!") cemetery, plots are only available to a loved one for about twenty years, then they are transferred to the church's collection, so although we had a photo of Tonia's mother's (my great great grandma!) stone, it was long since gone. We did, however, find the stone of grandma's late uncle, Ruedi Keller, who only died very recently.



After we spent a very...overwhelming...time at the church house marveling over the beauty of everything, over the closeness to such a long lost relative, over everything really, we began to make our way down the little stone path onto the road below toward the house.
It was on this way, the same little path that Tonia walked back home when she was a little girl, that we passed a lady standing outside of a doorway having a smoke. We almost walked by her without saying a word, but I sucked up the courage to try talking to her and mentioned the house and who we were. My German failed me a little bit at a certain point because we came to a block in our conversation and tried to find other methods. I asked if she spoke English, then she asked if I spoke French, to which I asked if she spoke Italian, to which she nervously and apologetically replied "Emmmm...!" However, she wanted to help and so she took the packet of index cards with names and numbers and hurried inside, saying she was going to do…something. It took a while for her to come back out again and we were getting anxious and extremely restless by the time she came back out with the cards.

She pointed up the road and explained in Denglisch that she had been on the phone calling about and that Berty Keller, the wife of Ruedi Keller, the aunt of Mary Jean, and my great great aunt, was up Dorfstraße by the school and on the left, working in her front garden.

…What?

We thanked her in a rush and went up the side of the hill as fast as we could. With little to no contact over the past several decades, it was impossible to imagine finding someone, but here we were about to meet for the first time a woman my grandmother had only ever written a letter to (to inform her that Tonia had died) and whom my father probably never even knew existed. Sure enough, there she was – just ahead and digging about amongst her flowers. We waved to her and she waved back, coming down to meet us.

Left to Right: Isabella (our translator),
Herr Keller, and my Grandma, Mary

She only spoke a very heavy German and was already calling her neighbor over for help translating. It was clear she was both very excited and confused, but as soon as Grandma showed her the photos and addresses that she had, Frau Keller recognized her niece immediately and was a flow of speech. In the next breath, I’m convinced she explained in depth the history she knew about Mary Jean, said three Hail Marys, and recited the Magna Carta, but closer investigation and some help from her neighbor confirmed that we were invited to have coffee inside and she had a whole house of things to show us.

We must have spent the next hour or so with her, raving over old photo albums and telling stories about the family members, communicating through the combined efforts of Frau Berty’s neighbor Isabella and me. It was way beyond cool. I was in the house of my great great aunt whom I had never met, along with my dad (her great nephew), and my grandma (her niece). It was a one-of-a-kind family reunion. She had pictures of so many people I’m related to (in one way or another) and stories and…

It was just so so cool.

Isabella, Grandma, Grandpa, and Dad at the table
See? We managed to communicate pretty well!


Isn't she just beautiful?? ^^




Pictures of Great Grandma Tonia and Great Grandpa Robert; The one on the right is Tonia leaving for America

Herr Berty is an artist; she painted this herself and my grandma
has a few of her pieces as well; even I recognized the style immediately
Isabella did a fantastic job translating into English. She hadn’t spoken it since the fourth grade and was only fresh because she was helping her kids (now that age) to learn. Wherever she struggled, we helped her through, but she was simply brilliant and so good to take the trouble to come help.
And Great Great Aunt Berty (I get to call her that! ^^) is just the most wonderful, warm, and sweet old lady. She showed us her paintings (grandma has a few of her pieces), jewelry and sea shells that were sent to her, and a number of other things. She wouldn’t let Dad leave without accepting a box of Swiss chocolates and she and grandma talked about flowers and gardens, because they both love them so much. With their addresses and Isabella’s email, we hope to keep up correspondence and send them pictures of grandma’s flower gardens as well. I will be sending all of the photos we took as soon as possible and I'll send a link to this blog post.

When we finally left, she kissed us all good bye and invited us to stay with her any time we want.

all four generations together
this is when she explained to us that in Switzerland, the salutation is done
with three kisses instead of two

And we had to absolutely salute Isabella, who did a wonderful job
Great Great Aunt Berty made the visit unforgettable for everyone, I think
 We went back downtown, had a nice German-Swiss dinner (Lecker lecker!), and gave ourselves one last look at the house, the town, and the hill.

Tonia's old house






























We took the scenic route back home through the pass in the Alps. It had been a day more than amazing, and all that was left to do was take our time going back to Italy.




I’m Jonathon, and this is my life.





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