Sunday, July 1, 2012

Sto Lat! Sto Lat! Happy Birthday to me!


Dear Followers,

I write to you now from a PKP Intercity train making its way from Gdynia, Poland to Berlin, Germany. The past week or so has given me a nice stay in Poland in the company of some really good friends, and now I have silly photos, a full belly, and a light sun tan to remember it by. From my arrival in Poznań for the solstice, to the day trips for walks around the cities, to dodging about through banks of fresh fruit and old books, to sitting on a ledge by the sea talking, to warming my face by a fire in the middle of the night, and finally to where I sit now, I have nothing but good things to remember…

With such a short amount of time to stay, I confess that there simply wasn’t the possibility to really tour Poland and see places like Cracow, Warsaw, and the mountain regions of the Northeast; but while I was here, I was taken on tours of Poznań, Gdańsk, and Gydnia, and enjoyed a much calmer and more laid back stay than I had in Germany or Italy. It’s been quite a long two months out on the road, so my much more relaxing visit to Poland was just what the doctor ordered. And, all things considered, I hit it at a pretty good time for weather and a pretty interesting time for tourism, considering the 2012 Europe Cup Football Tournament. Most of my time was spent in the port cities of the north where the Polish Scout troop I met almost five years ago originates.



The Baltic region of Poland is dominated by a rich history of Teutonic rule, a thriving amber trade, and the two main northern ports of Gdańsk and Gdynia (just mash that ‘g’ and ‘d’ together and you should be able to pronounce it mostly properly). In Gdańsk, I got to see the largest standing brick church in Europe (complete with a beautiful astronomical clock like the one in Lübeck) and walk through a lot of enchanting streets built in the old style. In Gdynia, I got to see some of the shipyard in the middle of the celebration of the anniversary of one of their ships, the Dar Młodzieży, the “Gift of the Young” and walked along the Baltic beach. What I think I enjoyed above all was that (aside from hitting Gdańsk’s main street on International Free Hug Day) there were so few other tourists and I could enjoy things like picking up cupcakes at a local shop and walking along the harbor with a dear old friend. It was like a home away from home.




St. Mary's Church in Gdansk


Justyna (our guide in Gdansk), Zuzia, and me with our "lucky" cupcakes


Zuzia and her wonderful parents hosted me in their apartment in Gdynia for the course of my stay. Every day, they fed me a few traditional Polish dishes and eventually also left me with a cookbook of Polish cuisine. Zuzi, like her mom, is an artist, so the house is full of paintings and artwork as well as a lot of art supplies and an overall warm décor. Advice to the traveler: if you plan on staying in the house of another, stay with a family of artists (or musicians). In my experience, they always make it feel like home. Zuzia’s family really was simply too kind to me. I can’t even say.

Aside from the occasional city tour, we had a few other adventures just amongst ourselves. One notable excitement was the day that I talked her family into letting me cook something for them. My plan was to give them a taste of both my Italian life and my American life, so after much searching I found a delicious summer risotto to make for lunch and after much thinking I remembered my famous recipe for chocolate chip cookies.

We went out that morning to the old market for fresh ingredients and just made a day of it. In fact, while I was here we went out shopping a few other times. Zuzi took me to her favorite used and antique book store and later also brought me to the Polish Scout shop. There, I got a new beret for my uniform (the other was too small) and maybe also did some shopping for a few good siblings and my dear scouting mom.



In the end, the risotto turned out magnificently and the cookies were an instant hit. It was delightful to see them have fun helping me pour ingredients and mixing the bowl “with love.” After the dough was made, Zuzi’s father Mariusz was like a little kid on his birthday when I let him lick the spoon. That was my favorite part, I think! I made them have the first cookies fresh out of the oven with a little glass of milk, and they loved them.

In the kitchen

our risotto d'estate

Zuzi's parents love it!

On the subject of birthdays, I actually do have another thing to recount. While I was here in Poland, I had my twentieth birthday just a few days ago, and I got to celebrate it doing one of my favorite things in the world: sailing. Ania and her parents own a sailboat on big lake near a 700 year old town called Iława (ee-wah-vah —good luck with that one; at least it’s not ‘Tczew’). I have never been, shall I say, boat camping before, but I think this was a really good first time.

Irmina and Ania




We set out on Wednesday and picked up enough food (and chocolate chip cookies!) to last almost the entire trip, making a quick stop to see the castle in Malbork (ah-yee-bitmah-toong… just kidding! XD Malbork is pronounced normally) and that afternoon we were on the boat, a single mast beauty named Aria. We were Ania, Zuzia, a shy girl named Irmina (new friend to me), and of course myself. Ania was captain and Zuzi and Irmi were the seasoned crew, while I was learning the ropes yet again for the third ever sailing adventure of my life. We had pretty fair winds the first day and had a pretty basic camp on one of the little islands that night, bunking down with sleeping bags and blankets in the cabin of the boat.

The next day was a slow one with partly cloudy skies and almost no wind. The girls woke me, however, with well wishes and ”Sto Lat”, the Polish “Happy Birthday Song.” For breakfast, they had packed peanut butter and jelly to make sandwiches just for me in honor of my birthday. Everyone got to try one and Ania and Irmina—who were new to the idea of peanut butter and jelly—loved it. And, to make up for the slow sailing day, the girls sat on deck with the guitar and played songs, singing together in Polish.



It was at this point, watching them playing and singing together, that I could tell just how special of a thing they had invited me to join by coming sailing with them. Rocking gently with the boat on the water, I found myself in the midst of something that made these girls who they were together. I understood that sailing trips like these were things entirely theirs, part of the valuable friendship that they share, and that I was honored to join.

That night, the girls requested lots of firewood (as the man, I had jobs that typically had descriptions like “Jon, could you please catch the boat when we get into the dock?” or “Jon could you please carry this on board?” or “Jon, could you please fetch us firewood?” and I replied, “As you wish…”) while they prepared food on the boat and started setting up camp. I was out on one of my runs, hiking my way through underbrush with a load over my shoulder, when Ania suddenly came along the nearby path, saying that they needed me back at camp. Somewhat concerned, I followed her back to where we were setting up by the water’s edge, only to find them all holding a cake they had just made and singing “Sto Lat” with big smiles on their faces.


 
A warm fire, a swim in the lake at sunset, roasting kielbasa over the flames, and staying up all night playing violin, playing guitar, singing, telling stories, and counting the stars until sunrise over the lake made it one of my favorite birthdays ever.


On that subject, I’m not sure if I have a lot to say or not about turning twenty. Ask me in a year maybe.

The next day was fantastic weather, and the only sad part was that it was our last. Everyone stripped down to bathing suits under the warm sun and we had excellent winds for sailing through the water. Ania gave me one last birthday present and let me be captain, handing me the wheel and giving directions only when necessary. It was the first time I’ve ever sailed a boat like that in my life, and I had a wonderful time.

Eventually, we docked and unpacked the boat, tying everything down and locking up. Another adventurous travel later and we were all back home, safe and tired (even though, after inventory later, I found I had lost yet another left sock). I said good bye to Ania and Irmina and that night celebrated my birthday again with Zuzia’s family. They, yet again, did and still do too much for me. I can’t thank them enough now, but I can assure them that revenge is coming. One way or another, I’m going to get them back for all their kindness and find something really special for them =] Everyone made my visit to Poland an absolutely perfect and wonderful experience. I think that in years to come, God willing, I’ll make it back again, just like I’ll make it back to Italy, to Germany, to everywhere in the world I need to go, and most importantly back home.

Home. Yes, that does bring me back to the present, doesn’t it?

Today everyone woke up unreasonably early to greet the 5am clock and the falling rain of a thunderstorm. These days it seems that it is almost always raining anytime I leave some place. One taxi ride later, we were at Gdynia Główny railway station and they were loading me onto the train underneath the falling drops. I thanked and saluted everyone one last time and they stayed on the platform by the train until it pulled out of the station. Then they followed along, chasing the window until it left them behind. Do widzenia…Until we meet again.



Now I find myself once more returning home. It will be an almost three day adventure getting there. When I get to Berlin this afternoon, I’ll make my way to Frankfurt and then catch my flight tomorrow morning. One ocean later, I’ll be stateside, and then it’s just petty talk to get back to my family. It’s been a fantastic adventure so far and I’ve had a grand two months in Europe. Now, I just have the duty of making sure it ends well. I’ve learned a lot, grown a little, and met some good people along the way. I guess that’s just how it is.

I’m Jonathon, and this is my life.







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